alpha aromatics®Did you know the majority of perfume use alcohol in their formulations, and that it serves a multitude of pivotal functions beyond just being a solvent? Without alcohol, the scent development process would differ, often becoming more immediate and less structured in terms of note progression. In the following, we delve into how this elemental component not only acts as a solvent but also as an artist’s brush, defining the scent profiles and longevity of your favorite fragrances.
The recorded use of alcohol for the purpose of macerating plant materials in perfumery dates back to the ancient cultures of Egypt, Mesopotamia, the Indus Valley and China.
The oldest method known to man involves the alcoholic fermentation of a substance containing carbohydrates (sugar).
The ancient Egyptians made incense by burning resins and woods, but true distillation of alcohol extraction did not occur until the 12th century and the Arabian culture.
Apothecaries soon evolved in Europe and in 1370, Queen Elizabeth of Hungary commissioned the very first modern perfume, which was known as Hungary Water, and was believed to be a youth potion.
The art of perfume flourished throughout Europe during the Renaissance and Age of Discovery, when maritime explorers brought back exciting and mysterious scents from the New World such as vanilla and cocoa.
How Exactly Is Alcohol Made?
Alcohol, specifically ethanol used in beverages and perfumes, is produced through a process called fermentation followed by distillation. Here’s a simple breakdown:
- Fermentation: This biological process involves yeast or bacteria converting sugars into alcohol. The raw materials, like grains (e.g., barley, wheat), fruits (e.g., grapes), or sugarcane, are first crushed or malted to expose sugars or starches. Enzymes might be added to convert starches into fermentable sugars. Yeast is then introduced, which consumes these sugars, producing ethanol and carbon dioxide as byproducts. This mixture, known as “wash” or “wort,” contains a low concentration of alcohol.
- Distillation: To increase the alcohol content, the fermented liquid undergoes distillation. It’s heated in a still, where alcohol, with a lower boiling point than water, vaporizes first. These vapors are then cooled and condensed back into liquid form, resulting in a higher alcohol concentration.
- Purification: The distilled alcohol might be further purified or blended to achieve desired flavors or strengths.
This process transforms simple sugars into the alcohol we use in various applications, from spirits to perfumes.
Perfume is produced by fermentation-derived alcohol which is obtained from raw food materials.
A microscopic fungus known as bakers yeast is the culprit responsible.
The yeast is placed in an environment with no access to air and soon begins consuming sugar in the form of berries, fruits, honey, beets, and sugar cane. This process releases carbon monoxide and ethanol. When the concentration reaches 8 to12% of alcohol, the yeast is no longer active.
Carbohydrates, such as starch from grains, potatoes and corn are also suitable for fermentation.
What Types Of Alcohol Are Used In Perfumery?
There are several kinds of alcohol that are considered safe to use and some are never a part of formulations. They are as follows:
Denatured Alcohol
Defined as being unfit for human consumption, denatured alcohol should never be labelled as the sole component of a perfume because it can contain toxic substances.
Denatured alcohol labelled cosmetic grade Trade Specific Denatured Alcohol (TSDA) is an exception, is perfectly safe and made expressly for use in cosmetic products.
Perfumers recommend the variant known as SD-40b (SD-40b-TSDA).
Perfumer’s Alcohol And Formulator’s Alcohol
Loosely defined, perfumer’s alcohol refers to a blend of alcohol and additives that are used as a base for fragrances. It is often used as a surrogate term for TSDA or as a blend intended for use instead of TSDA.
Formulator’s alcohol combines denatured ethanol and dipropylene glycol. It can be utilized to make perfumes, colognes, room sprays, and diffuser oils.
Both novices and professionals alike can and do often use this blend.
Rubbing Alcohol And Isopropyl Alcohol
Rubbing alcohol should never be used in perfumery because it contains the chemical, isopropyl alcohol, instead of ethanol.
It has a potent smell and is not kind to human skin. It is also a difficult medium for dissolving raw materials and contains water.
Grain Alcohol And Organic Grain Alcohol
Obtained by the fermentation of grains and other plants, grain alcohol is ethanol. It can be considered organic if the source material was grown organically.
For grain alcohol to be used in perfumery, it must be cosmetics-grade and diluted at 95%+ethanol content.
A high-proof grain alcohol named EverClear, which is made in the United States, is 190-proof and 95% ethanol, which is considered food-grade and suitable for perfumery.
Bioethanol (Agricultural Ethanol)
The sources for this type of alcohol are vegetable in nature and include fruits, cereals and sugar cane. It has little if any odor, making it ideal for use in the natural perfumes.
It acts as a preservative for essential oils and deters bacterial contamination.
Organic cane alcohol is often used as a eco-friendly base for hypoallergenic scents.
It’s made by fermenting sugars or starch, distilling and purifying the ethanol, and finally dehydrating it to remove all water.
Ethanol aids in the formulation of a sprayable consistency and helps the perfume disperse and evaporate.
Corn Alcohol
Often employed for delicate fragrances because it is neutral with very little scent and will not overwhelm other ingredients.
Most commercial fragrances contain ethanol fermented from corn, which is known SD 40. Corn alcohol is gluten-free, often certified as organically produced and non GMO.
How Is Alcohol Used in Modern Perfumery?
Alcohol is the perfect carrier in perfumery because it is light and unstable, which allows for the fragile lifting and dissemination of fragrance notes. It serves multiple purposes in Alpha Aromatics’ perfume formulations, which include the following:
1. It’s A Powerful Solvent
Alcohol serves as a base to distill the fragrance concentrate. The solvent known as ethanol or ethyl alcohol, dilutes the perfume concentrate comprised of raw materials such as: flowers, spices, resins and woods.
It evaporates quickly and is invisible.This process permits the new substance to be safely applied to the skin or diffused into the air. It is affordable, neutral in smell, easy to obtain, safe and non toxic.
2. Evaporation
Alcohol has a low boiling point of 78 degrees Celsius, which permits rapid evaporation of the head note molecules into the air when they are applied to the skin.
This is vital to the unfolding of a scent over time, as the alcohol continues to evaporate, permitting the heart and base notes to develop.
The evaporation of alcohol carries the scent further because during the process some of the fragrance travels with it.
3. Scent Progression and Consistency
Also known as sillage, in the world of perfumery this is the trail that a fragrance leaves behind as it evaporates.
Scents that are heavier contain more sillage while lighter ones have considerably less.
It is the inclusion of alcohol that determines a perfume’s sillage because its is integral to fragrance evaporation and diffusion.
Alcohol permits a sprayable consistency.
4. Preservation
Ethanol has anti-microbial properties that deter the growth of bacteria and fungi and aid in preserving the shelf life of a perfume.
It prevents the deterioration of aromatic substances and maintains the freshness and integrity of the scent.
It is superior to isopropyl alcohol, which is known to cause unwanted changes in the formulation and can also be more toxic. Ethanol is most often utilized in a 70% solution.
5. Alcohol As a Fixative
Due to the fact that alcohol evaporates quickly, even though it is not fixative by itself, it bolsters the strength of fixatives such as as smooth, creamy sandalwood and green, earthy vetiver that are often utilized in formulations.
A fixative material can be added to an alcohol-based perfume to slow down the evaporation rate of the alcohol, which helps to release the scent more gradually.
Base notes of a fragrance can also act as fixatives.
6. Regulation And Safety
Formulas must comply with safety regulations and their labels must be specific as to directions for use.
This is due to the fact that many fragrance materials can cause sensitization and allergies, irritation and may contain carcinogens, endocrine disrupters, neurotoxic chemicals, and environmental toxicants.
7. Concentration Of Fragrance
The concentration of any fragrance is determined by the amount of alcohol used in its creation.
This results in the alcohol that is added to scents like Eau de Parfum, and Eau de Toilette, becoming standardized so that they are always safe for application on the skin.
Eau de Parfum has a higher density of aromatic elements and less alcohol when compared Eau de Toilette, which affects both the scent’s duration and strength.
8. Aesthetics and Application
Alcohol’s quick-drying nature makes it practical for application.
It doesn’t leave an oily residue, which would be the case if oils alone were used, and it dries quickly on the skin, which allows the fragrance to develop without feeling wet or sticky.
In conclusion
The use of alcohol in perfumery has a rich and colorful history dating back to the days when the world was young.
It serves to aid the interaction of fragrance with the warmth of human skin.
It is not often hailed as a perfume ingredient as it should be because it is always doing its job behind the scenes, so to speak.
Understanding it composition and purpose can only intensify and expand its use.
For the perfumers of the world however, it is a secret that long ago let the cat out of the bag.
